Autumn is the best season for surfer. Beach is not crowded and water is still warm. Especially in Enoshima beach, there are a huge number of people in summer season. So, it's difficult to surf there in the season.
When I went there last weekend, it was a little rainy and there was a weak on-shore wind. I expected a good wave, but the sea was calm. But it was OK. Suefing is a Nature sport. We have to adjust to a natural condition. When the wave is weak, we can change the style of riding on it.
My friend said, surfing is where human meets God. I don't understand the real meaning, but I can know it is an idiot who think he/she can control anything in the nature, when we surf. All we can do is just to adjust to a given atomosphere.
I waited for a good wave coming on the sea. Good wave had came suddenly. I had to turn quickly, and paddled very fast. When my speed could catch up with the speed of wave, I could ride on the wave. But, in fact, I failed many times.
Long time waiting for a good wave was suffering. Our image of surfing is the scene of riding a wave. But, actually we spend the most time to wait for it. Riding time may be a few seconds. We have to be patient on the sea. However, we wouldn't be irritated there. Because, when watching the sea, we can forget time passing easily. I think it is the richest time.
I enjoyed the surfing school for super beginners last weekend.
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