Sunday, June 11, 2006

VS Big Wave

Last Saturdy, the size of wave is Shonan beach was big. I heard that the last time of this size was two months ago. I tried surfing then, but the strong and big wave was too difficult for a biginner surfer. I couldn't stand on a surf board at all. I was very shocked.
My instructer said to me, "It was a good experience. For me, at the first time, this size of wave was very scary. But, after the experience, other sizes of wave became easy."

I realised how the power of wave is strong this time.
The wave is always weak on Shonan beach. So, we have to paddle very much to surf.
But this time, I didn't need paddling. The strong wave enforced me to go toward the beach. i couldn't stand up on my surf board. Only I could do was to hold my board. It was like a body board. But I could fell and understand waht the catching a wave is.

Now I am afraid whether I can surf in Australia this summer. The wave on Gold Choast must be bigger than here. BBQ on the beach might be better for me. But, anyway, I have to practice more.

Many shops on Shonan beach are under construction. The sea will be open from July. During summer time, this beach becomes not for surfers but for the people who loves events, festivals, and romance. The surfer's activity is limited in the early morning or the night time. Not to say, catching a girl is as difficult as catching a wave.

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