The season seems to move from winter to spring. But, the move is not smooth. One day is warm, we think spring hascome. Another day becomes cold again, we wear a sweater again.
Depending on days, the air temparature changes. Thanks to this change, strong wind and air pressure are born on the sea. The power of air hit the sea strongly. This is the origine of wave.
The wave born on the Pacific Ocean is very raugh. You can't control your ship there. But, the closer the wave comes to the beach, the milder the shape of the wave becomes. Surfing is the sport to ride on the mild wave.
Last week, I went to Enoshima beach with Akira 1 to surf. It was my first surfing in this year. It was a fine day. The air temparature was over 20. We didn't have any problem to go to the sea. Before going to the sea, I checked the wave information on internet. Good waves were coming now! I rushed to go to Enoshima.
There were many people in the surf shop my board was kept in. Many seemed to come from the early morning. I have the handycap that I have to drink every single night, so I couldn't get up early the day, but anyway I tried to catch up with other surfers. But...
I say to you that enough warming-up must be needed on the winter sea! At the first moment when I went insede the sea, I felt something inside my body stopped.
Although it was a warm day, the water wouldn't catch up with the air. It was still very cold! I was shocked not to the cold water but to the lack of my immagination before going into the sea. I rushed to puddle soon to make my body warm! Don't stop on the cold sea. Move for survival!
Human body is strong. I could saty on the sea for 2 hours and a half the day. I could enjoy surfing very well. I recomend you to give a shock to your body sometimes. You can know the body is taugher than you think. Maybe.
2 comments:
You are becoming a man of the sea! I always enjoyed Enoshima area. Especially the beach shacks.
MIke, I am a man of sake at first!
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